Refinance. When the numbers work.

The most common scenarios are: market conditions have shifted since you took your loan and the math may now be different for your situation, your credit has changed enough that you're offered different terms, you've built equity and want to remove mortgage insurance, you want to convert from FHA to conventional to drop MIP, or you need liquid funds and prefer using your home equity rather than another form of debt. Which of these applies to your specific situation — and whether the numbers work after closing costs — is exactly what Jesse calculates with you in pre-qualification.

A cash-out refi replaces your current loan with a larger new one, and gives you the difference in cash at closing. It's a way to access the equity you've built in your home — for renovations, consolidating higher-interest debt, or any other use. How much you can take out depends on your home's current value, what you owe on the existing loan, and the specific program's limits. There are clear rules about how much can be taken — Jesse tells you exactly how much in pre-qualification based on your situation.

Yes, in many cases. If your home has appreciated since you bought it and/or you've paid down enough of the principal, you may already have the equity needed to refinance into a loan without PMI. That removal is one of the most common reasons people refinance, and it's usually the easiest to justify against closing costs. Jesse calculates with you whether the numbers work for your specific case.

Yes, and it's a very common path. The main reason: FHA's MIP often stays for the life of the loan, while conventional PMI can be removed once your equity reaches a certain level. If you bought your home with FHA several years ago and have since built equity and improved your credit, refinancing to conventional may drop the permanent insurance. Pre-qualification tells you whether the numbers work in favor of making that switch.

Refinancing has closing costs — similar to those when you bought the home: appraisal, title, insurance, origination, taxes. The key question isn't whether they cost, but how long it takes for the costs to be recovered (the so-called break-even point). If you plan to stay in your home longer than that break-even, refi usually makes sense. If you're going to sell or move soon, it usually doesn't. Jesse calculates your specific break-even in pre-qualification — no generic numbers.

It's possible. If your situation has improved since you took the original ITIN loan — more equity, better payment history, more stable income, or if rates have shifted in your favor — refinancing may make sense. Geneva Financial works with ITIN loans both for purchase and for refinancing. We've refinanced ITIN families when the numbers worked in their favor.

Generally less than buying a home, because there's no property search or offer negotiation — just processing the new loan. The exact length depends on your situation, how quickly you provide documents, and the lender's workload at the moment. Jesse gives you a realistic estimate on the first call, based on what you're refinancing and where you are.